Postcard from Hanging Stones

A visit to Andy Goldsworthy's land art installation in North York Moors National Park

Before hearing of Andy Goldsworthy’s Hanging Stones, I had no idea where the North York Moors were, or what a “moor” even was. It’s hard to imagine ever visiting this remote dale in northern England if not for Goldsworthy’s installation. And yet, as the afternoon sun shone over the miles of trails and verdant pastures connecting this series of restored stone barns, I found it difficult to focus on the aesthetic merits of the handiwork, juxtaposed with the overwhelming natural beauty of its frame. Perhaps this is just as the artist intended.

“I have tried to see something that is in some ways already there,” reads Goldsworthy’s artist’s statement. “It is the valley itself, not me, that has set the terms of engagement and created my rationale for Hanging Stones… It will be so rooted in what is already there that it would be difficult to say where the work begins or ends.”

The photo essay below contains only images of scenery and the buildings’ exteriors. If you’re not afraid of spoilers, I’ve included a gallery with some interior pictures at the very bottom of this post. Right above that is some guidance on planning your own visit. The FT and NYT articles about the work also have some nice imagery from different seasons alongside quotes from Goldsworthy and the project’s patron.

If you’re even considering a visit, make your reservation now for £10 per adult (up to six per party) and figure the rest out later. Although open rain or shine year-round, there are only a handful of slots available each day, and they are already booked through next June as of this writing. (Plan to fly into Manchester, rent a car, and stay in a nearby town such as Helmsley.)

At the time of your reservation, you will drive to a nearby bed and breakfast, where you will get the keys to the barns, along with a laminated map, written instructions, and a brief overview from the attendant of how to proceed. You then continue down the hill into the village of Rosedale Abbey, which is where your walk starts and ends. There’s a small shop in the town center with a lovely tea service and excellent baked goods, sandwiches, and other takeout lunch items. (I would still recommend packing enough snacks and water to get you through the day in case it is closed when you arrive.) Just to the north is a well-maintained public bathroom.

The hike is about six miles total with just over 1,100 feet of elevation change. We finished in about 4.5 hours. It’s not difficult for an able-bodied adult of average fitness, but expect to encounter livestock gates every few hundred yards that need to be closed behind you. The trail is too steep in parts to be handicap accessible, and even older children may struggle to complete the loop without assistance.

Set aside some time to visit the nearby ruins of the Bank Top Kilns at the apex of Rosedale Chimney Bank, which is the steepest public road in England.